No audio at all with default settings.

So, to start this off, the problem originated when hpc-mc stopped working with Dolby atmos, no sound whatsoever. After trying various tweaks for hours on end I was able to get sound by disabling bitstreaming and having it render as just pcm. I've tried different media players such as vlc, stand alone mpc-hc and so on with various different settings. In an attempt to go back to basics I then uninstalled every single codec, filter, media player and such and installed the most recent k-lite pack and k-lite update using default settings. Now I have no sound when playing files and get these error messages (which started this mess). To be clear, I do have a Yamaha receiver and speaker setup quite capable of all the current audio formats along with Dolby atmos and this was working fine until last night using the default settings that k-lite uses once I checked all the bistreaming options.

The following pin(s) failed to find a connectable filter:

Error 1:

Error 2:

There were no system updates or graphic driver updates done between this working perfectly for me for well over a year and the day it stopped working. Please help!

Default settings + enable bitstreaming is correct. So you don't have to mess with codecs and players any further.

There are two things to check:
Windows Control Panel > Sounds > Verify that the correct audio device is set as default
If you prefer Speakers as the default, then you can select the digital output device in: MPC-HC options > Playback > Output > Audio renderer

Again in control panel, go to the properties of the digital output device. There is a page that lists all bitstreaming formats that are supports by the device. Make sure that all are enabled, and that nothing is missing.

Otherwise re-install the sound driver. Windows Update may have silently replaced it without you knowing it, or something has broken it.

So I went ahead and reinstalled the sound drivers and found something interesting.

This is when the receiver is on but the TV is off.

https://i.servimg.com/u/f62/19/82/44/97/sound_10.png

This is when both the receiver and TV are on.

https://i.servimg.com/u/f62/19/82/44/97/sound_11.png

Sound now plays fine when the tv is off but I'm still getting that error message as soon as I turn the tv on.
Now I know that Dolby TrueHD is not listed as a supported format when the TV is on but up to now it never has been and it still worked just fine.

Any thoughts as to how to get this to work with the receiver and TV on at the same time?

(BTW it's connected by going HDMI from my GTX 1080 to the Yamaha receiver, then HDMI from the receiver to the TV.)

Linkcwz wrote:So I went ahead and reinstalled the sound drivers and found something interesting.

This is when the receiver is on but the TV is off.

https://i.servimg.com/u/f62/19/82/44/97/sound_10.png

This is when both the receiver and TV are on.

https://i.servimg.com/u/f62/19/82/44/97/sound_11.png

Sound now plays fine when the tv is off but I'm still getting that error message as soon as I turn the tv on.
Now I know that Dolby TrueHD is not listed as a supported format when the TV is on but up to now it never has been and it still worked just fine.

Any thoughts as to how to get this to work with the receiver and TV on at the same time?

(BTW it's connected by going HDMI from my GTX 1080 to the Yamaha receiver, then HDMI from the receiver to the TV.)

I think there's a mis-configuration with your audio devices/receiver. It seems like your receiver is routing the PC's audio directly to your TV, and that's the problem, it is sending all audio to the TV's speaker.

I think it has something to with ARC(this actually makes it possible to use the TV as input at the same time as your PC, with just 1 cable). You need to manually set the device to use the speaker instead of the TV for audio output(set the default device in Sound settings on your PC). Or you have HDMI passthrough enabled which passes through your PC's audio to your TV and disables the Receiver device.

Edit: You will need to set "HDMI SET" to use the Speaker Terminal instead of "Other'. "Other" will make it passthrough audio through the TV.

Edit 2: IF your TV support "HDMI Control" you can switch audio output with your TV's remote control.

notcyf wrote:I think there's a mis-configuration with your audio devices/receiver. It seems like your receiver is routing the PC's audio directly to your TV, and that's the problem, it is sending all audio to the TV's speaker.

Nope

receiver settings1:

receiver settings2:

I did however get it to work by doing an EDID override by messing with the display dirver.

After fix:

Posting a link to the guide in case it can help anyone else out (it mentions being a fix for ATI graphics cards but the solution worked for my NVIDIA card)

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-home-theater-computers/1227161-edid-overrides-solve-bitstreaming-issues-ati-5xxx-s.html

Linkcwz wrote:

notcyf wrote:I think there's a mis-configuration with your audio devices/receiver. It seems like your receiver is routing the PC's audio directly to your TV, and that's the problem, it is sending all audio to the TV's speaker.

Nope

receiver settings1:

receiver settings2:

I did however get it to work by doing an EDID override by messing with the display dirver.

After fix:

Posting a link to the guide in case it can help anyone else out (it mentions being a fix for ATI graphics cards but the solution worked for my NVIDIA card)

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-home-theater-computers/1227161-edid-overrides-solve-bitstreaming-issues-ati-5xxx-s.html

According to http://faq.yamaha.com/us/en/article/audio-visual/aventage/rx-a2010_black_u/7593/2488/can_i_pass_hdmi_audio_signals_through_a_yamaha_receiver_to_my_tv_speakers it's actually a feature to be able to passthrough audio to the TV directly. It states this:

"Yes, All Yamaha HDMI compatible AV receivers can pass through HDMI audio signals. The factory default option allows the receiver to send audio signals coming through the HDMI inputs to the speaker terminals of the receiver. (With the exception of the HTR-6050, HTR-6130,HTR-6230, RX-V363 and the RX-V365 which only support HDMI audio video pass through.) The HDMI inputs only pass the video signal to the TV monitor. The Other option can be selected in HDMI SET in the receivers Manual Setup Menu. This will enable the receiver to pass the audio signal straight through to the TV. Please refer to the owners manual for specific details regarding the HDMI settings."

So there definitely is the ability to disable it without EDID hex edits.

Edit: Have you checked the "Audio Output" folder in the receiver btw? Is it selecting the correct audio device?

notcyf wrote:

According to http://faq.yamaha.com/us/en/article/audio-visual/aventage/rx-a2010_black_u/7593/2488/can_i_pass_hdmi_audio_signals_through_a_yamaha_receiver_to_my_tv_speakers it's actually a feature to be able to passthrough audio to the TV directly. It states this:

"Yes, All Yamaha HDMI compatible AV receivers can pass through HDMI audio signals. The factory default option allows the receiver to send audio signals coming through the HDMI inputs to the speaker terminals of the receiver. (With the exception of the HTR-6050, HTR-6130,HTR-6230, RX-V363 and the RX-V365 which only support HDMI audio video pass through.) The HDMI inputs only pass the video signal to the TV monitor. The Other option can be selected in HDMI SET in the receivers Manual Setup Menu. This will enable the receiver to pass the audio signal straight through to the TV. Please refer to the owners manual for specific details regarding the HDMI settings."

So there definitely is the ability to disable it without EDID hex edits.

I will definitely have to look into that, thanks for the heads up.

notcyf wrote:

According to http://faq.yamaha.com/us/en/article/audio-visual/aventage/rx-a2010_black_u/7593/2488/can_i_pass_hdmi_audio_signals_through_a_yamaha_receiver_to_my_tv_speakers it's actually a feature to be able to passthrough audio to the TV directly. It states this:

"Yes, All Yamaha HDMI compatible AV receivers can pass through HDMI audio signals. The factory default option allows the receiver to send audio signals coming through the HDMI inputs to the speaker terminals of the receiver. (With the exception of the HTR-6050, HTR-6130,HTR-6230, RX-V363 and the RX-V365 which only support HDMI audio video pass through.) The HDMI inputs only pass the video signal to the TV monitor. The Other option can be selected in HDMI SET in the receivers Manual Setup Menu. This will enable the receiver to pass the audio signal straight through to the TV. Please refer to the owners manual for specific details regarding the HDMI settings."

So there definitely is the ability to disable it without EDID hex edits.

UPDATE

So my receiver does not have that specific setting.
I have a RX-V681 and after going through the relevant sections in the MANUAL I found nothing that references HDMI SET. From what I could find even turning off all the HDMI options (like I had in the pictures before) doesn't seem to have any effect.

Edit:

notcyf wrote:Edit: Have you checked the "Audio Output" folder in the receiver btw? Is it selecting the correct audio device?

I did check that, it was already set like this:

Audio output folder:

Then it must indeed be a bug with the receiver.

notcyf wrote:Then it must indeed be a bug with the receiver.

I'm leaning more towards microsoft or nvidia releasing a faulty update. Fun fact, when I made the display adapter use the EDID from my receiver I lost 4k resolution on the tv, swapping the EDID gave me back my 4k resolution but lost the audio support. So I guess merging EDID's is just something I know how to do now. That was time consuming.

Linkcwz wrote:

notcyf wrote:Then it must indeed be a bug with the receiver.

I'm leaning more towards microsoft or nvidia releasing a faulty update. Fun fact, when I made the display adapter use the EDID from my receiver I lost 4k resolution on the tv, swapping the EDID gave me back my 4k resolution but lost the audio support. So I guess merging EDID's is just something I know how to do now. That was time consuming.

It's still not a good idea to mess with EDID's. I still think there's a way to fix this without doing that, since i don't think you're one of few that uses a PC with a receiver.

Since it worked before, is there anything you changed? Like changing cables. Behavior can sometimes differ based on which HDMI ports you use on the receiver and TV.

As notcyf mentioned it is most likely a setting on the receiver (or TV) that controls how the audio is passed through the receiver, causing the EDID of the TV to be used. Perhaps a button on the remote?

This may be useful:
https://sourceforge.net/projects/edideditor/
(I have not tried it myself)

Admin wrote:Since it worked before, is there anything you changed? Like changing cables. Behavior can sometimes differ based on which HDMI ports you use on the receiver and TV.

As notcyf mentioned it is most likely a setting on the receiver (or TV) that controls how the audio is passed through the receiver, causing the EDID of the TV to be used. Perhaps a button on the remote?

This may be useful:
https://sourceforge.net/projects/edideditor/
(I have not tried it myself)

He did an EDID overwrite mentioned on overclock.net. This seems a far to generic issue. This issue seems to also exist for ages. I really think there's just a problem with some setting, because this is only a known issue on a very old series of AMD cards(5xxx series).

I really highly doubt this is caused by a bug, but rather a mis-configuration somewhere. As that topic mentioned: "http://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-home-theater-computers/1227161-edid-overrides-solve-bitstreaming-issues-ati-5xxx-s.html" it says the bug was fixed years ago.

The EDID override is a very dirty hack and to prevent further issues it's better to try and fiddle with the A/V receiver settings.

By factory default, it uses the analog speaker outputs on the receiver and only the video EDID is sent to the PC(from the TV), so it might be worth trying to reset to factory defaults.
What you could also try is using DDU(https://www.wagnardsoft.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=939) and completely reinstall GPU drivers AFTER you've correctly set the configuration on your receiver.
You could also check whether you are using the correct HDMI ports on the receiver as they sometimes have different purposes. E.G. if it says "TV" use that for the TV and if it says "BR player" use that one for the PC unless there's a specific PC slot.
There's also a receiver firmware tool inside the receiver(you must connect it to your LAN/internet cabled) you could try updating the firmware through there.


There's no clear guide on the Yahama website and only some vague information(only visuals for the basics not for the more advanced stuff like the audio passthrough) that is useless without actually owning the device.

Edit: Is there an option for "Input Source" in the receiver? On the manual it says that might be a problem if it's set incorrectly.

Firmware is updated to latest version, tv is set to output audio through the receiver, all receiver settings are set to block audio to tv over hdmi and there are no specific hdmi ports for different devices except for HDPC version and the computer is plugged into the one set for HDPC 2.2. Input source lets me pick the input to use (HDMI 2 is selected since the computer is plugged into HDMI 2) and the decoder mode is set to auto out of the options auto and DTS.

Admin wrote:Since it worked before, is there anything you changed? Like changing cables. Behavior can sometimes differ based on which HDMI ports you use on the receiver and TV.

As notcyf mentioned it is most likely a setting on the receiver (or TV) that controls how the audio is passed through the receiver, causing the EDID of the TV to be used. Perhaps a button on the remote?

This may be useful:
https://sourceforge.net/projects/edideditor/
(I have not tried it myself)

Haven't changed any cables, or configuration. I watched a movie on it the other night as normal and then the next day I got home from work, loaded up a movie and the issue started. Literally didn't change anything. (BTW I live alone so no one else to mess with anything.)

Linkcwz wrote:Firmware is updated to latest version, tv is set to output audio through the receiver, all receiver settings are set to block audio to tv over hdmi and there are no specific hdmi ports for different devices except for HDPC version and the computer is plugged into the one set for HDPC 2.2. Input source lets me pick the input to use (HDMI 2 is selected since the computer is plugged into HDMI 2) and the decoder mode is set to auto out of the options auto and DTS.

Have you tried removing the EDID Override, ENABLING the audio passthrough(setting the TV as audio output), and then disabling it again? It might cause the "stuck" TV EDID mode to be set correctly again. ARC can be left enabled since all it does is allow the TV to be used as audio input source(at the same time as the PC), so without it on you won't be able to hear anything output by the TV without using multiple cables.

Most likely turning off the TV caused a so-called "hot plug" event which causes the EDID to be set to default. Something like this is probably what caused the issue in the first place. This should NORMALLY only happen if the device completely loses power and isn't in a "soft off"(like for example PC's: turning off a PC actually usually the USB ports powered) or when you unplug the cable.

You can also experiment with the order in which you turn the devices on. For example first TV, then receiver, then PC.

Update, nvidia released new drivers which seems to have fixed the issue completely. I uninstalled the EDID edit I did when I installed new drivers today and everything is working the way it's supposed to.

-EDIT
Seems to have somewhat fixed the issue. Apparently this might be a HDMI bandwidth limitation. Right now everything works when the resolution for my tv is set to 3840x2160. However upping that to 4096x2160 seems to break the sound again.

Interesting. Could be a bug in how they calculate the available bandwidth. Or perhaps your cable is of low quality. I would assume they should not show modes that are unsupported.

Be aware that you can also select the color depth for the resolution. For example 8 bpp or 12 bpp (bits per pixel). The latter one requires more bandwidth, and at 4K resolution and 60Hz it needs HDMI version 2.1.

What you can do is create additional (custom) resolutions in the Nvidia settings: 23.976 Hz, 25 Hz, and 29.97 Hz. Then use the refreshrate switching ability in MadVR to switch to the appropriate one for the current video. Then you can use 12 bpp (for HDR video) for those modes and 8 bpp for 60 Hz.

If your TV handles 3840x2160 properly (without extra resizing) then that is best to use for video playback, as it better matches common video resolutions.

Admin wrote:Interesting. Could be a bug in how they calculate the available bandwidth. Or perhaps your cable is of low quality. I would assume they should not show modes that are unsupported.

Be aware that you can also select the color depth for the resolution. For example 8 bpp or 12 bpp (bits per pixel). The latter one requires more bandwidth, and at 4K resolution and 60Hz it needs HDMI version 2.1.

What you can do is create additional (custom) resolutions in the Nvidia settings: 23.976 Hz, 25 Hz, and 29.97 Hz. Then use the refreshrate switching ability in MadVR to switch to the appropriate one for the current video. Then you can use 12 bpp (for HDR video) for those modes and 8 bpp for 60 Hz.

If your TV handles 3840x2160 properly (without extra resizing) then that is best to use for video playback, as it better matches common video resolutions.

It's probably the cable length since I'm using a 25ft cable. It's also just 2.0b standard. Haven't found a HDMI version 2.1 yet that comes in that size for a cheap enough price. I'm also pretty sure that my is limited to 10 bpp being a Samsung TV.

Linkcwz wrote:

Admin wrote:Interesting. Could be a bug in how they calculate the available bandwidth. Or perhaps your cable is of low quality. I would assume they should not show modes that are unsupported.

Be aware that you can also select the color depth for the resolution. For example 8 bpp or 12 bpp (bits per pixel). The latter one requires more bandwidth, and at 4K resolution and 60Hz it needs HDMI version 2.1.

What you can do is create additional (custom) resolutions in the Nvidia settings: 23.976 Hz, 25 Hz, and 29.97 Hz. Then use the refreshrate switching ability in MadVR to switch to the appropriate one for the current video. Then you can use 12 bpp (for HDR video) for those modes and 8 bpp for 60 Hz.

If your TV handles 3840x2160 properly (without extra resizing) then that is best to use for video playback, as it better matches common video resolutions.

It's probably the cable length since I'm using a 25ft cable. It's also just 2.0b standard. Haven't found a HDMI version 2.1 yet that comes in that size for a cheap enough price. I'm also pretty sure that my is limited to 10 bpp being a Samsung TV.

A cable alone isn't enough. Devices on both ends of the cable also need to support HDMI 2.1.

notcyf wrote:

A cable alone isn't enough. Devices on both ends of the cable also need to support HDMI 2.1.

From my understanding the 2.1 standard can be done with soft/firmware updates. Otherwise I'm stuck without it because this TV is only a couple of months old and GTX 1080's aren't cheap.

Linkcwz wrote:

notcyf wrote:

A cable alone isn't enough. Devices on both ends of the cable also need to support HDMI 2.1.

From my understanding the 2.1 standard can be done with soft/firmware updates. Otherwise I'm stuck without it because this TV is only a couple of months old and GTX 1080's aren't cheap.

HDMI 2.0b only support 4K@60FPS(16:9), anything higher will cause issues. The no audio-issue is actually a common issue of bandwidth limitation: http://denon-uk.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/5777/~/no-sound-from-hd-sources-when-connected-to-hdr-tv


I would recommend using normal 4K(and deal with black bars or stretching) or disabling certain HDR features to save bandwidth. HDR isn't that great of an improvement on most panels anyway, it just a bandwidth hog that doesn't do much in the eyes of normal human beings due to current generation panels. Only certain OLED and some LCD(that have good local dimming) will benefit from HDR10. At the moment it is really gimmicky and just used for marketing.

To answer your question: HDMI 2.1 will no be possible with just a software update. It requires a firmware AND controller update(hardware), so that's not going to happen unless they start taking in 1080's and replace the
HDMI controllers.